vanderrohe

Barcelona Pavilion by hugo keene

Location: Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain
Architect: Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich
Completed: 1929

11 Photographs

As ‘architects in training’ during the 90s in Australia, the crisp clear buildings of architects like Glenn Murcutt and Tadao Ando played a very prominent role in our discussions and learning. From them, we can draw a line back to the obvious influence of the work of Mies van der Rohe and the evolution of construction technology he embraced in the German Pavilion for the 1929 International Exposition (colloquially known to architects as the Barcelona Pavilion). You can see a similar influence in one of the earlier buildings in this series, the Stahl House, the structural system and the whole philosophy of the of which is constructed off the metaphorical foundations laid by buildings like this pavilion.

My initial encounter with the Barcelona Pavilion was in a competition during my third year of architecture school back in Australia. The competition brief was to design a gallery and offices for the Fundació Mies van der Rohe, perched somewhere on the hill above and behind the original pavilion. We never visited the site for obvious reasons, proposed a sweeping set of concrete curved planes, open at both ends, and did not win the competition.

I have visited the pavilion several times in the years since and photographed it twice. The photographs here are from the first visit. At the time, it was also the first time I had visited one of the more exalted of the masterworks of modern architecture. I had seen great buildings by master practitioners in Australia, some more in Singapore, Hong Kong, and Japan, but to see one of the epochs defining buildings was another kettle of fish entirely.

I have recognised over the years that I get quite emotional when approaching and viewing significant buildings, especially ones I have long admired, but this time the emotional landscape was new and surprising to me. Here was something I felt like I knew intimately, but also not at all. I felt like I was supposed to understand it, to be able to read the architectural manoeuvres, and, most terrifyingly, to be able to verbalise it to my intrigued travelling companion. At this point, I realised that I knew nothing at all about the history or theory of modern architecture and kicked myself for not paying more attention in my History of Architecture classes with Sean Pickersgill.

I struggle sometimes to comprehend what the idea of ‘modern’ really is, to the point where it loses any kind of meaning. Coming on to almost a century since it was first built, yet the pavilion is crisp, clean, and designed in such a way that the simplicity and optimism feel contemporary and relevant, rather than naïve or old.

The reconstruction of the pavilion, more than 50 years after it was demolished, is controversial, but I do not have overly fixed opinions about what constitutes authenticity in architecture. I am happy to enjoy it for what it is and for what it represents, comfortable in the knowledge that it was years after I visited that I even remembered that it had been demolished and rebuilt.

I still don’t feel like I know a lot about the history of architectural theory, but by visiting these places and experiencing them myself, I am starting to understand at least why certain buildings are important within it. I think some buildings are more important to architects and architectural history than to the public, and this one feels a little like one of those. Not obviously spectacular or profoundly moving, just a simple, beautiful, and vitally important part of it all.

HWLK

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Villa Tugendhat by hugo keene

Villa Tugendhat - Brno, Czech Republic - Architect: Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich - Completed: 1930

12 Photographs

My habit of returning from European ice hockey tournaments via unconventional routes found me stalking up a snow-covered Czech hill one brisk March morning brandishing a sheepish grin and a printed ticket. I hadn’t seen many images of the Villa Tugendhat before but felt I knew it having recently read the fictionalised story of the house in Simon Mawer’s book The Glass Room. The book itself was famously disliked by the descendants of the Tugendahts, but it brought to my attention one of the late European buildings of one of the great modernist masters. I’d seen a number of Mies’ buildings in North America a few years before, but this felt like something different, smaller, less machine-like, no less refined, but in a different way. I was excited.

I really love the moments on an architectural adventure, just before a house or building comes into view, when you know it’s coming. I can clearly see the steep street in my mind, a tall building masking the view as I approached, before the wide side garden opens up, revealing a beautiful white house, settled in the snow, looking out across a rolling town also blanketed in snow. A perfectly white, beautifully clear and simple work of remarkable clarity, deeply modernist, inside and out.

I liked this house much more than I expected. It is opulence at its most austere, managing a kind of warmth that surprised me. The sun-filled rooms and plant-filled glasshouse certainly contribute to this, but it’s definitely more than that. The clean white of the material palette is balanced by the richness of the materials used in the detail; the rosewood, the travertine, the onyx, and the bronze.

The construction nerd in me was delighted at how technically brilliant and innovative the house was for its time, utilising window heaters to eliminate condensation, as well as 4 gigantic 3.1m x 4.8m windows which mechanically dropped into the floor to open the whole front of the living spaces to the garden.

Remarkable.

HWLK